Friday, July 07, 2006

Life is like a bowl of eggs.


Being back here is an extremely sureal experience. It's so wierd how things have changed soo much, but also how they've stayed the same. When I arrived yesterday, there was a welcome "home" party and I got to catch up with a lot of people that I haven't seen in years. Becuase even though I have surfed for these guys since I was 15, I have been a full time student for the last couple of years and I haven't had the time to come out here. We joked around and had a few beers, and then by 8 I was ready for bed! Because really their 8 is my 11 or 12... I am not sure which...

The first thing that I noticed while I was unpacking was that they have totally remodeled this entire place! It looks a lot nicer than the last time that I was here. A lot more like a home and a lot less like a trashy youth hostile in Paris (I had a bad experience in a hostile in Paris, I don't really want to talk about, hahaha it was just awful though!). But now I have my own room, and I have wireless internet, so life is good! Just as long as I can keep my eyes open long enough to do so, I am going to keep on posting!

My internal clock is sooo messed up right now that its not even funny! Its like 9 am and I have been up since 4:30 am doing stretches and working out with my physical therapists. By 5:15 I was eating breakfast, and by 6:00 I was catching my first waves. It was kind of soupy out there this morning, but I got a couple of decent waves. I stayed out there for a little over an hour, and then I headed back to my physical therapists for some more work out fun! This is my mid-day rest in a way... Basically I have this time to chill before I go back and work my body out some more, then work on some balancing issues and other stuff that I have been having problems with. I honestly feel like a pro right now. It's a good feeling to know that you deserve to be here.

I am way low-tech at the moment, so I am not sure how the picture posting is going to work for me since it will be hard for me to make things to post everyday... This was something that I was working on in the plane here. I was extremely nervous and when I am nervous I draw... I don't know if you can tell, but this is an extremely nervous picture. You totally have to love first calss though, becuase if I were in coach I wouldn't have been able to sketch so nicely! But I am pretty much over all of those feelings now. I would like to give a special thanks to "Tom". His comment a few days ago on my insane emotions really hit the nail on the head. Tom, you are awesome! Thanks for putting things into perspective for me.

12 comments:

Asher said...

So why is life like a bowl of eggs?? Haha. It seems like you are getting settled pretty nicely. Its good that you understand that you deserve to be there! I am sure that you are going to make the best with your time there and have a fun time with old friends! I can't wait to hear more about it.

Trevor said...

That is what I am talking about dude! I know that you are doing great there and everybody is just standing there in awe as they watch you tear it up! Stay classy!

Darren said...

Nice bowl of eggs! First class is quite the big deal! I have never been in first class in my entire life, but It seems like its quite luxurious, especially on a long ass flight like the one to Hawaii!! I am happy to hear that things are going so well for you, keep it up!

Josh said...

You have a lot going for you and its good that you are finally seeing that! This trip is going to show you that you belong in the surfing world. I have seen you surf and I know that you have talent. The fact that you haven't been trying only shows that you have more talent than a lot of the other people out there! Show them why you are great!

Tom said...

You're welcome Eric. Glad it helped.

Rip it up!

George said...

I am with Asher! Why is life like a bowl of eggs!? I just don't get it. I hope that you hae a great time and htat those pgysical therapists show you how to make your body function properly. Don't be intimidated by all of those other surfers. They might be hiding just as much as you are. I think that you are your own testament to the fact that you never really know whats going on in another man's head.

John said...

My favorite plane crash is the one where The jet flips over and the guys eject and shoot out like missiles! That's so awesome! Haha! I love Me First and the Gimme Gimmes. They are such a fun band.

I hope that you have an awesome trip. It sounds like its already up to a fun and extremely exhausting start. I hope that you can keep the pace.

Jane said...

Nice bowl of eggs! I am not sure what that has to do with anything, but its drawn very well. Hawaii just makes things better no matter what. Soak up the sun and catch some waves and I am positive that by the time that you get back life will be perfect!

2xLife said...

hmm, eggs make me queezy, and so does flying, so I sense some sort of connection there... not to mention they're looking a little precarious

Tino said...

I am curious to know about this hostile in Paris! What made it so awful? Also I can not imagine anything that would be crappy and unlivable in Hawaii! If it is that awful anywhere inside, I wouldn't see the problem in just sleepiing under the stars! haha But I am totally an outdoors loser.

I hope that you continue having an amazing time. You really deserve this.

Marc said...

Surfing in Hawaii is making me sooo jealous! I look at the stupid beach here @ Seal and I hate it! I want to go to Hawaii!

Sorry for freakin out. I just really need a change! Have fun dude! Show all of the old guys what the new gen is all about!

Jason said...

What an exciting day! Your post made me want to get off my lazy ass and do something. But then thinking about doing something basically tired me out for the day...

Keep up the energy and have an awesome time out there. Soak it up because you are extremely lucky to be in a situation to do these things. Have fun!